Frequently Asked Questions

Our weed control and fertilization services are designed to effectively eliminate weeds while promoting the health and growth of your lawn. The time it takes for the weeds to die after our treatments can vary depending on the type of weeds, the condition of your lawn, and environmental factors. In general, you can expect to see a noticeable reduction in weeds within 2-4 weeks after our initial treatment. However, some stubborn weeds and grassy weeds may require additional treatments for complete control. Our team will assess your lawn and provide you with a tailored treatment plan to ensure the best results. Additionally, our 8-visit program is designed to provide ongoing maintenance to prevent future weed growth and promote the overall health and beauty of your lawn.

After a weed control and fertilization service, it is important to wait at least 24 hours before watering your lawn. This allows the products to properly settle into the soil or be absorbed and start working effectively. After 24 hours, you can water your lawn as normal, ensuring that the products have had enough time to be absorbed. However, if there are specific instructions provided by our technicians following the service, please follow those instructions for the best results.

At Marshall Lawns, we use products that are designed to be rain fast within a specific time frame. Generally, weed control and fertilization products require a drying time of approximately 1-4 hours after application to become rain fast. This means that if rain occurs within this window, the products will have already absorbed into the soil and should not be significantly washed away. Additionally, factors such as temperature, humidity, and the amount of rainfall can all impact the rain fastness of the products. If you have any concerns or questions about the rain fastness of our products, please don't hesitate to reach out to our knowledgeable team for personalized guidance.

It happens. Please let us know as soon as possible if you are having a weed breakout. It is not uncommon for lawns that have been treated under a year to experience breakouts, or when a neighboring lawn is unmaintained. Keep in mind that it may take 2-4 weeks after the initial treatment to see weeds dying. Please send us a request in the client portal and attach a picture of the weed breakout so we can identify it. We will work schedule a return visit to spot treat weeds.

Our weed control and fertilization services are designed to not only eliminate existing weeds but also prevent new ones from emerging. When we apply our weed control products, they work to kill the weeds at the root, ensuring that they will not grow back. As a result, the dead weeds may remain visible in your lawn for some time before decomposing. However, rest assured that our treatments are effective and will lead to a healthier, weed-free lawn over time. Often decomposing weeds will disappear after the next time you mow.

After a weed control or fertilization treatment, we recommend waiting at least 24-48 hours before mowing your lawn. This allows the treatment to be fully absorbed by the grass and soil and maximizes its effectiveness. It's also important to avoid watering the lawn for at least 24 hours after the treatment to ensure the product has ample time to work. Additionally, we advise keeping pets and children off the treated area until it has dried completely. If you have any concerns or specific questions about post-treatment care, please don't hesitate to contact our team for personalized guidance. If your treatment included fertilizer, please do not bag clippings until fertilizer is watered in. Otherwise, it’s fine to mow and mulch.

No, you do not need to mow before every visit. However, if your lawn is overly long (3 inches or more) or contains significantly tall weeds, it can hinder the effectiveness of our weed control treatment. If your grass or weeds are very tall, we recommend mowing before our visit to ensure the best results. Ultimately, our goal is to provide you with a beautiful, weed-free lawn, and we will work with you to achieve the best outcome for your specific lawn care needs. During times of heavy rains, we know it's hard to keep up with mowing when things are growing so fast, but the treatments will still be very effective.

Mowing: Bermuda grass tolerates a range of mowing heights. In order to keep Bermuda short, it will require more frequent mowing and possibly more water during dry periods. Whenever mowing, the rule of thumb is to not cut off more than ⅓ of the grass blade to keep things green. If you do not wish to cut bermudagrass every 5 - 7 days, then you will probably need to gradually raise the mowing height during the summer months. We recommend cutting Bermuda grass every 7-10 days for the best results. The more often the lawn is mow, the better it will look. A common Bermuda mowing pattern is: March- Mow short to remove dormant grass (mow low and bag). April- Mow short to allow sun to warm roots and allow “green up.” May-Sept- Begin mowing frequently in order to keep short OR begin to gradually raise mowing height to keep from scalping lawn if you don’t want to mow as often. We recommend heights of 1-2.5 inches, the shorter the better. Oct- One final cut of season, and mow fairly short (but not scalping). This will end the growing for the season and also reduce the amount of dormant grass that will have to be removed the following spring. This cut is not a scalp, but removing some of the grass on the final mow of the season will lessen the work in the spring.

Mowing: St. Augustine will tolerate a range of mowing heights though mowing often is recommended, with mowing heights between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Whenever mowing, the rule of thumb is to not cut off more than ⅓ of the grass blade. If you do not wish to cut St. Augustine 7-10 days, then you will probably need to gradually raise the mowing height during the summer months. A common mowing pattern would be as follows: A common St. Augustine mowing pattern is: March- If you like to have an early green lawn, consider mowing once the weather begins to warm which allows more sunlight to reach the roots. This will increase the likelihood of winter damage so if we are still experiencing freezing weather proceed with caution. April- Once freezing weather is gone for the year, a normal mowing pattern can begin. A frost at this time make cause some discoloration in the turf. This is typically not easy to prevent and usually the turf will begin growing and the damaged turf can be mowed off. May-Oct- Begin mowing frequently in order to keep at the recommended height, between 2.5 and 3.5 inches, OR begin to gradually raise mowing height to keep from scalping lawn if you don’t want to mow as often.

If the grass blades are allowed to grow too long before being cut, or the time between cuts is too long, the green part of the blade is being cut off with each mow. Only the top 1/3 of a Bermuda grass blade is green, and waiting too long to mow will leave it brown or a few days after a cut. This is temporary, and the grass will grow and return with a green haze again. If the lawn is bumpy and only spots of the lawn are brown after mowing, you may have an uneven lawn that causes the height of the blade to be cut at different lengths and the mower bumps up and down during the cut. Having your lawn leveled will reduce or eliminate this uneven surface and give you an easier, and cleaner even mow.

After a weed control and fertilization service, it is important to wait at least 24 hours before watering your lawn. This allows the products to properly settle into the soil or be absorbed and start working effectively. After 24 hours, you can water your lawn as normal, ensuring that the products have had enough time to be absorbed. However, if there are specific instructions provided by our technicians following the service, please follow those instructions for the best results.

Bermuda Watering: Water the lawn as necessary from May through September. If you have irrigation, we recommend watering less often, but longer duration. For example, instead of watering 4 times per week for 10 minutes per zone, water 2 times per week for 15 minutes per zone. One deep soaking per week is usually sufficient along with normal rain. During dry periods, you may want to water three times weekly. If you have irrigation on seasonal flowers, then you can decrease the irrigation time to flower bed zones. For example, you can water flowers 3 times per week for 5 minutes per zone. Watering during cooler months can be helpful if it is very dry. For irrigation systems, water early in the morning, we recommend 4:00 AM. Watering in the evening can allow water to stay on the grass too long possibly leading to fungus. Watering too often, or in the evenings can lead to fungus and weed problems. Other Bermuda Notes: Bermuda is extremely drought tolerant, but it can take a while to turn green again if it turns brown from dry weather or lack of watering. Watering before it loses color is best. Bermuda is not shade tolerant, it requires 8 hours or more of sun to grow thick and green. If you have shade areas, it is recommended to make that area a natural area with mulch or zero scaping. Dollar Spot is a common fungus in Bermuda which looks like small brown spots in the lawn. It can occur often in May when nights are still little cool. Bermuda will typically grow out of dollar spot with warmer, drier weather and a few mows. It is a cosmetic fungus that typically doesn’t last long. Fungicide can help but only provides a few weeks prevention. Recommendation is usually to allow the grass to grow out of the fungus which is helped by fertilizer, and watering at the right time of day.

Watering: Water the lawn as necessary from May through September. If you have irrigation, we recommend watering less often but longer. For example, instead of watering 4 times per week for 10 minutes per zone, water 2 times per week for 15 minutes per zone. Watering too often can lead to fungus and weed problems. One deep soaking per week is usually sufficient along with normal rain. During dry periods, you may want to water twice weekly. If you have irrigation on seasonal flowers, then you can decrease the irrigation time to flower bed zones. For example, you can water flowers 3 times per week for 5 minutes per zone. Water during cooler months can be helpful if it is very dry but typically it is not necessary. For irrigation systems, water early in the morning such as 4:00 AM. Watering in the evening can allow water to stay on the grass too long possibly leading to fungus. Watering too often, or in the evenings can lead to fungus and weed problems. Other St. Augustine Notes: St. Augustine is a drought tolerant grass, though it is not a cold tolerant grass. It is important to start watering during dry, hot periods before the grass turns brown. Often, once the grass begins to turn brown, damage has already occurred, and it may take a while to recover. St. Augustine is more shade tolerant than Bermuda and centipede lawns. This doesn’t mean that St. Augustine likes shade, but it tolerates some shade. Sun is better for St. Augustine lawns, and if you have a lot of shade in areas, consider making heavy shade spots a natural area with mulch or zero scaping, because St. Augustine needs some sunlight to grow. St. Augustine can be prone to fungus. We do not include fungicide in our lawn treatment program because most yards do not suffer from fungus. If your lawn begins to show fungus damage, we can add a fungicide application to help prevent fungus in the lawn. Once a fungus appears, it can be slowed down with a fungicide and the grass will recover over time, typically when the weather dries and warms up. *Important note for St. Augustine Lawns: If you ever notice leaves losing color or turning yellow, please contact us immediately and send a photo. St. Augustine lawns are susceptible to destructive “Take All Root Rot”. Lawns all over DFW and Central Texas saw significant damage in 2022 and 2023. It is as bad as it sounds and must be treated with a fungicide immediately to prevent further damage.

In the absence of rain, we recommend watering less often, but longer duration. For example, instead of watering 4 times per week for 10 minutes per zone, water 2 times per week for 15 minutes per zone. One deep soaking per week is usually sufficient along with normal rain. During dry periods, you may want to water three times weekly. If you have irrigation on seasonal flower beds, then you can decrease the irrigation time to flower bed zones. For example, you can water flowers 3 times per week for 5 minutes per zone. Watering during cooler months can be helpful if it is very dry. For irrigation systems, water early in the morning, we recommend 4:00 AM. Watering in the evening can allow water to stay on the grass too long possibly leading to fungus. Watering too often, or in the evenings can lead to fungus and weed problems. See additional FAQ information for Bermuda and St. Agustine lawns.

You can see upcoming appointments in the client hub. You are able to see a list of all your previous appointments and the next five of your upcoming appointments as long as those upcoming appointments fall within 60 days from today. They will appear in a list showing the date, time, and property location. Click the link below to visit the client hub: (no login required, enter your email associated with the account for access) https://clienthub.getjobber.com/client_hubs/9a906566-29ae-449a-a870-64a277773437/login/new?source=share_login

Reminders are sent via email 4 days before your service and by text 2 days before your service. If you are not receiving both notifications, it means we do not have both a cell phone and email on file. If you would like to receive both notifications, please email MarshallLawnSolutions@gmail.com with your updated contact information. We will never sell or share your contact information; it is only for use in correspondence for your services.

Treatments are approximately every 6 weeks. Some visits may be closer to 5-8 weeks depending on the time of year. When you start with us in January, there are 8 visits in a calendar year. If you are starting mid-year, your treatment will include the number of visits remaining for the year.

When you start with us in January, there are 8 visits in a calendar year. If you are starting mid-year, your treatment will include the number of visits remaining for the year. If you start in March, you might only have 7 visits this year, if you start in October there may only be 2 treatments remaining. Treatments are approximately every 6 weeks. Services will automatically continue the next year.

Weather forecasts change frequently, and we often make weather calls the day of service. Anytime a change happens we will try to communicate as soon as possible.

We occasionally need to reschedule visits when the weather calls for wind, rain, and freezing temperatures. We appreciate your flexibility and patience with weather related schedule changes. Weather forecasts change frequently, and we often make weather calls the day of service. Anytime a change happens we will try to communicate as soon as possible.

To request a Fire Ant Control quote, simply send us an email or click the request button below and submit a request in the customer portal. Email: MarshallLawnSolutions@gmail.com

There is an option we highly recommend that is effective for killing active ant mounds as you see them, but it will not prevent them. This method will kill ants, but cannot control them, as new queens will develop after mating flights and start new colonies. What is it? A mixture of Orange Oil and water poured directly over the active ant mound. Ingredients: 1.5 oz Orange Oil 1 Gallon of water Warnings: Fire ant’s sting! Some people are allergic to fire ant stings, and they are very painful. Do not attempt this with children and pets around, and always be mindful for straggler ants. When treating ant hills with an orange oil mixture, if the temperature is 90 degrees it can “sting” and brown the grass around where the orange oil mixture is applied. This is temporary and the grass will recover. Method: Do not disturb the ant hill prior to application. Mix ingredients in a one-gallon jug. Slowly pour a concentrated stream directly in the center of the mound. Pour a small ring around the center of the mound to discourage escaping ants. Always use caution to prevent contact with ants. Do this in the early morning or late afternoon when ants are in the mound.

Schedule Adjustments for Winter Weather We occasionally need to reschedule visits when the weather calls for wind, rain, and freezing temperatures. We appreciate your flexibility and patience with weather-related schedule changes. Anytime a change happens we will try to communicate as soon as possible. You will also see appointment reminders via email a few days before your visit, and the day before by text. This first visit of the season is an important pre and post emergent treatment that sets a lawn up for success in the spring!

You can add and manage your card yourself through Wallet in the client hub. When keeping your card on file, you will be prompted to enter your name, card number, expiry, and CVC in order to complete the transaction. There is also a checkbox to Keep this card on file which saves your card securely for future use. Cards on file will card automatically be charged after each service. Keeping your card on file will save you time from having re-enter the details in the future. We can only see the last 4 digits of cards on file and the card's expiration date.

You can see upcoming appointments in the client hub. You are able to see a list of all your previous appointments and the next five of your upcoming appointments as long as those upcoming appointments fall within 60 days from today. They will appear in a list showing the date, time, and property location. Click the link below to visit the client hub: (no login required, enter your email associated with the account for access) https://clienthub.getjobber.com/client_hubs/9a906566-29ae-449a-a870-64a277773437/login/new?source=share_login

After a treatment, it is generally safe for your dogs and pets to go back out in the yard once the applied products have fully dried. This usually takes around 1-2 hours, but dry times can vary with temperature and humidity. In the meantime, we advise keeping your pets indoors or in a separate area of the yard to minimize their exposure during treatments. We understand the importance of creating a healthy and safe environment for your entire family, including your furry friends.

Yes! Know someone who may be interested in our services? Refer a neighbor or friend! If they sign up for an 8-visit program, you'll receive $10 off your next scheduled visit.

St. Augustine Notes: St. Augustine is a drought tolerant grass, though it is not a cold tolerant grass. It is important to start watering during dry, hot periods before the grass turns brown. Often, once the grass begins to turn brown, damage has already occurred, and it may take a while to recover. St. Augustine is more shade tolerant than Bermuda and centipede lawns. This doesn’t mean that St. Augustine likes shade, but it tolerates some shade. Sun is better for St. Augustine lawns, and if you have a lot of shade in areas, consider making heavy shade spots a natural area with mulch or zero scaping, because St. Augustine needs some sunlight to grow. St. Augustine can be prone to fungus. We do not include fungicide in our lawn treatment program because most yards do not suffer from fungus. If your lawn begins to show fungus damage, we can add a fungicide application to help prevent fungus in the lawn. Once a fungus appears, it can be slowed down with a fungicide and the grass will recover over time, typically when the weather dries and warms up. *Important note for St. Augustine Lawns: If you ever notice leaves losing color or turning yellow, please contact us immediately and send a photo. St. Augustine lawns are susceptible to destructive “Take All Root Rot”. Lawns all over DFW and Central Texas saw significant damage in 2022 and 2023. It is as bad as it sounds and must be treated with a fungicide immediately to prevent further damage.

The best time to sand level your lawn is typically in the spring or early fall. Sand leveling helps to fill in low spots and even out the surface of your lawn, promoting healthy grass growth. In the spring, sand leveling can help prepare your lawn for the growing season, while in the fall, it can help to repair any damage from foot traffic or other stressors. After a lawn is leveled it will need to be watered more often. It's best to plan for a time of year when there is more natural rain or plan for extra watering to help the grass recover. We do not offer leveling services, but we can put you in touch with a local expert lawn leveling service. Send us an email at MarshallLawnSolutions@gmail.com and we will send you put you in touch.

Please let us know if you planned overseed, as we will need to change your application schedule slightly. Fall pre-emergent will conflict with seeding, and we will adjust application timing for this treatment. Otherwise, if we apply pre-emergent in the fall prior to seating your seed will not take.

Please send us an email at MarshallLawnSolutions@gmail.com with your question.

Sharpen mower blades. Inspect blades and consider replacing or sharpening dull and pitted blades. Dull blades can tear the grass and promote disease. Limit foot traffic. When grass is dormant it is susceptible to damage from heavy foot traffic. Traffic can also compact soil and make it dull and less green. Mild Mowing; Mow Bermuda lawns. If you have not mowed in a while and grass is looking long and uneven, it’s time for a trim. In the off season, mowing Bermuda grass will prevent it from becoming too tall. Edge around driveways and walks. Check your lines! If you have grass growing over the driveway, curb or walkways, use a string trimmer or edger tool to clean up those lines. Make plans for lawn leveling. If you are considering leveling this year, it’s time to get quotes and get on the schedule. The best time to level is late April-September when grass is green and actively growing. We do not offer this service; if you are interested in lawn leveling, please reach out and we can connect you with a highly recommended local leveling expert. Garden bed prep. If you have flower beds, make sure to keep up with cleaning them, adding mulch and planting annuals.

In the winter, lawns go dormant and turn brown. In the spring, warm temperatures and sunlight warm the soil and generate new growth. When soil temperatures get to 55 degrees, lawns will slowly start coming out of dormancy, and when soil temperatures are in the 70’s or higher, warm season turfgrass like Bermuda and St. Augustine start actively growing.

Brown and dead grass on your lawn acts like a thick winter blanket that insulates the soil from sunlight and warmth. This insulating layer of dead grass blocks sunlight and keeps the soil cooler which delays the growth of new grass. For Bermuda lawns, the dead grass will never turn green again, and it has to be removed so new growth can start fresh from the ground up. For St. Augustine and Zoysia lawns, the goal during the spring is to begin mowing at the proper height. Our fast-acting early spring fertilizer replenishes nutrients for new growth and helps with early spring green up.

The #1 Thing to Improve Your Bermuda Lawn’s Green-Up! MOW LOW. BAG ALL CLIPPINGS. Mowing low removes dead grass. Bagging clippings prevents a thatch layer from developing and hindering growth later in the season. Tips for this process: Plan more time than a regular mow. Stock up on paper lawn bags and plan for your disposal method (we like to do it before a bulk pick up day). Use a dust mask. Mow low. ***(see type of grass below) Bag all clippings. Use a lawn bag chute to assist with dumping clippings in the lawn bag. Time it with trash or bulk trash pick-up days to dispose of clippings. If grass is very tall, do this in several sessions, or several passes, and gradually take a little off at a time to lessen the work. Mow low and bag all clippings only needs to be done once in the spring, after that you can mulch as long as grass stays at the proper height. Make sure fertilizer is completely watered in before bagging. Make sure your mower blades are sharp. We’ll share tips and recommendations for mowing height later in the spring. If you use a lawnmowing service, inquire early before schedules book up. Avoid storing clippings in a garage. Plan your disposal or pick a time before bulk trash pickup.

These are both warm season grasses but require different care when it comes to spring preparations. For St. Augustine grass: Begin in mid-March, and only mow after the threat of freezing temperatures has passed. The spring goal is to begin mowing at the proper height. Mowing to three (3) inches is a good starting point. Never scalp or mow less than 2.5 inches, and do not cut off more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time. When is right for St. Augustine and Zoysia? Check the extended forecast in mid-March, and only mow after the threat of freezing temperatures has passed. St. Augustine is very susceptible to fungus, if you notice changes in your lawn, please contact us quickly! For Bermuda and Zoysia grass: Mow as low as your mower will go without hitting the ground or damaging your mower. This height varies based on how level your lawn is. If you have bumpy ground, you will not be able to go as low. You can “scalp” the lawn if you want.

As temperatures drop and we transition into winter weather, here are some important winter preparation tips to help protect your investment: 1. Winterize Irrigation: As temperatures drop, it's crucial to prepare your irrigation system. We recommend contacting a professional to properly winterize your irrigation system, ensuring that pipes and sprinkler heads are protected from freezing temperatures. 2. Cover Backflow Valve: Covering your backflow valve is essential to prevent damage caused by freezing. Be sure to insulate it with a protective cover or blanket to shield it from the cold. If your backflow pipes are taller than the protective cover, be sure to insulate any exposed pipes. 3. Protect Outdoor Faucets and Valves: Outdoor faucets and valves can be susceptible to freezing. Invest in faucet covers or wrap them with insulating materials to safeguard against winter's chill. Taking these steps will help maintain your lawn's health and ensure a smooth transition into the warmer months. Note: while a single night of freezing temperatures may not typically cause severe damage, recurrent or extended periods of freezing can indeed harm the irrigation system. It's wise to monitor weather forecasts and take preventive measures when the forecast indicates prolonged cold temperatures. Proper winterization, including draining the system or insulating components, is recommended for areas that experience freezing conditions for more extended periods.

1. Seeding: The short answer is no. Our services will enhance the soil quality and reduce weeds which push growth and fill in the bare spots. It is not a quick process. This process can take up to a year or more depending how severely damaged the lawn is. Small patches grow in quicker. The warm season grasses we have in Central Texas are self-healing and will self-repair under the right conditions. Keeping up with mowing and watering will make the spots fill in easier. 2. Sod: The answer is maybe; you really need to know what sod to get. The answer for sod is the same for seeding 90% of the time; wait it out and the bare spots will fill in. If you have a unique situation, please requiring sod, please reach out with questions. The biggest concern we have is that you get the correct type of sod, not all Bermuda sod is the same and it has different growing colors and patterns which can make it look patchy and detract from your lawn's appearance.

Select the "Request a Quote" button on our website. We measure lawns remotely and all our pricing is based on square footage of a lawn.

Visit our website, Facebook or send us a message with questions. We offer 8-visit programs for year-round weed control and fertilization for a healthy, beautiful lawn. No more guessing what products to use, or battling with weeds that won't go away. We also offer liquid aeration and soil amendments.

Belton, Temple, Salado and Salado. We are a small company, to find out if we service your neighborhood, please visit our website and click on "Request a Quote". Enter your address to see if we currently service your neighborhood.

No, we do not offer mowing services at this time. We offer services and packages for year-round weed control, fertilization, liquid aeration, and soil amendments for a healthy, thick lawn.

We get results. No contracts, fertilizer with micronutrients, pre- emergent and post emergent weed control, year- round coverage, free service calls, local small business, no pesky sales calls. Stop wasting money on treatments that don't work, and start getting results with Marshall Lawn Solutions.